Introduction
If you have purchased or done research about top-rated toilet manufacturers, then most probably you must have come a cross the Swiss Madison company. Toilets from this company are among the high-end toilets in the market. However, when it comes to installing these toilets many people always have difficult times. This article provides a step by step to how you can install a Swiss Madison toilets at home.
TOOLS
You need a hacksaw, adjustable wrench, putty knife, plunge, slip-joint pliers, rag, jigsaw and rubber gloves. You also need the Swiss Madison toilet itself and a wax seal.
1. Prepare the Floor and Soil Pipe
First, to prevent the hardware from falling in and to block the sewer gas, stuff a rag into the soil pipe.
Check the hole in the floor if it is sizeable enough to fit in the closet up to its collar. If the hole is not large enough, trace around the base of the flange with a pencil and use a jigsaw to cut the excess flooring. Joists should not be cut during this process.
Into the closet bend, dry-fit the soil pipe. Put the flange over the soil pipe, then take the measurements between the finish floor and the bottom of the flange’s collar.
Take out the soil pipe and then use a handsaw to cut it to the required size in the previous step. Use a putty knife to remove burrs by scraping the cut edge,
To the soil pipe, dry-fit the flange and then to the closet bend insert the soil pipe to make sure the flange’s collar sits on the floor
2. Establish the Closet Flange and Soil Pipe
The second procedure is wiping the PVC primer which is outside of one end of the soil pipe and on the inside of the closet bend. On the same surfaces apply PVC cement, then immediately twist the soil pipe into the closet bens.
To the free end of soil pipe and inside the closet flange, prime and apply cement. Press and twist the flange to the soil pipe till the collar sits on the floor.
Then the collar should be twisted till its slots are situated to the left and right of the hole. The closet screws to be inserted into the slots should line up behind the tank wall. Use stainless steel screws which are long enough to reach deep to the subfloor to secure the collar to the floor.
3. Solder the Stop Valve
Next, the bathroom’s water supply valve should be shut off.
Beneath the supply line place a bucket of water, then use a tubing cutter to sever the line. Approximately leave one inch of the pipe to attach the escutcheon and the stop valve. Leave the pipe to drain.
Take out the stem and valve’s handle. This is because soldering heat may destroy the stem’s plastic washer.
Use a rag to dry the pipe both inside and out. Also use a wire-brush pipe cleaner to untidy the outside and inside of the valve’s inlet, then to both areas apply flux.
Over the supply line slip the escutcheon, then the stop valve should follow. Make sure the valve’s outlet is pointing upward.
Use a propane torch to heat the supply line stop valve joint. Remove the flame and run the solder around the joint once the joint is heated enough to melt the solder. The joint will be filled once a drop of solder appears at the bottom.
4. Set the bowl and set up the wax ring
Into the flange collar’s slots, insert threaded-end up, long brass bolts. Over each, slip a brass washer.
Over the flange, with the flat-side down smoothly press the wax ring.
Above the projecting flat rim, lift the bowl, then use the closet bolts to line up the openings in its bottom, lower the bottom of it onto the ring.
Press the bowl down without rocking or twisting onto the wax ring till the base of the bowl sits on the floor. Shim the bowl using stainless steel washers if the floor is uneven.
Over each bolt, slip a nylon washer and hand-thread the nuts. Use a wrench to tighten the nuts one quarter turn at a time, interchanging between the two. Over tightening will crack the bowl, so stop immediately when the wrench meets resistance.
At a point two threads above the top of the nut, use a hacksaw to trim the closet bolts. Plastic bolt covers should be snapped into place.
* If replacing existing faulty wax seal or existing toilet, begin with this step.
5. Install the Tank
On the outside of the tank’s bottom there is a large rubber tank-to-bowl washer which you should ensure that it is firmly seated.
Into the small tank holes from inside of the tank, fit the small-diameter rubber tank washer and then fix the tank bolts.
While guiding the ends of the tank bolts into the openings, smoothly lower the tank onto the back of the bowl.
Onto each bolt slip a nylon washer and use your hand to thread the nuts.
Using a screwdriver, hold each bolt in place and hand-tighten the nuts. Alternate from one nut to another and check severally to ensure the tank is level. Then to the flapper connect the tank handle.
6. Install the Supply Line and Seat Assembly
Curve the supply line using a tubing bender so that it can fit between the tank-supply fitting and the stop-valve outlet. With the flared end up, hold the pipe between these two spots and mark it approximately one and half inch below the outlet.
Using a tubing cutter, on the mark made above cut the line that supplies water.
Onto the supply line, slip the ring and compression nut, and plastic nut ( start with plastic nut and then ring and compression nut).To the valve’s outlet threads, add a thin layer of Teflon paste, then base the line in the outlet and fix the ring.
Under the tank there is a supply line with a plastic nut which should be hand-tighten. Then use a wrench to tighten the compression nut.
7. Finishing Touches
Over the bowl position the seat assembly, through the bowl’s seat holes and the seat back, insert the plastic bolts. Use your hand to tighten the nuts.
Allow water into the tank by turning on the main supply line and opening the stop valve. Once the tank has filled, flush several times to check for any leaks or issues.
The above are the steps you need to follow when installing your Swiss Madison toilet. In case you encounter issues that you can’t handle contact an experienced plumber.