Whether your old house has been built without closets, or if you want to convert a den, office or dormitory room, add a closet will make your home more functional and attractive to buyers when reverends. Carefully designed to ensure that the cabinet does not reduce the area of 70 square feet (6.5 m) required by the International Residential Code for one bedroom, and do not block any doors or windows, making the room reduces their value.
Wardrobe closet bedroom
Use the existing room walls and the cupboard walls. Measure the length and width of the room to make sure it is large enough for adding the closet, usable floor space is not reduced below 70 square feet (6.5 square meters) and windows are not blocked or doors.
Using a stud finder to locate the ceiling joists and the walls at the end of the room where you will build the closet. Spend the locator on the wall and make a pencil mark where the light comes on or goes off, depending on the type of pager you have.
Use the wall as the back wall of the closet. Measure the ceiling to 24 inches (60 cm) from the rear wall and six inches (15 centimeters) be the left wall where the cabinet and mark. Repeat the brand ceiling six inches (15 centimeters) where is the right wall, 24 inches (60 centimeters) from the rear wall.
Hang a plumb bob from each brand. Make a mark where the tip of the plumb line touches the floor.
A chalk line aligns with the marks on the ceiling, and shows another line from the right wall to the left.
Repeat Step 5 to drop another chalk line between the marks on the floor, from the right to the left wall. Shoots additional lines in the left and right walls from the ends of the lines on the floor to the ends of the lines in the ceiling.
Make a point to 12 inches (15 centimeters) from the rear wall of the cabinet, 60 inches (1.5 meters) from the floor in the right and left walls. Installing brackets following the manufacturer’s instructions. Place the rod on the brackets.
Mark two points on the rear wall 62 inches (1.55 m) above the floor, on the left and right sides of the cabinet. Flip a chalk line from wall to wall between those two points.
Measure the distance from the right wall to the left of the cabinet. Cut a piece of ribbon 1/2 x 2 inch (1 x 10 cm) that long. Adjust the miter saw to the saw bench at an angle of 45 degrees, place the end of 2 inches (10 centimeters) against Batten and miter cuts.
Ask someone to help you set the bar against the wall, with the slanted edge facing you. Make pilot holes 1/8 inch in diameter at the bar at an angle of 90 degrees and the wall studs. Place a countersink bit and drill into each pilot hole until the bit to penetrate deep enough to place the screw and it is flush to the surface of the wood. Secure the ribbon to the wall with wood screws 1/4 inches 1.5 inches (4 centimeters) long.
Cut strips of 24 inches (60 centimeters) for each side wall. Adjust the miter saw to the saw bench to a 45 degree angle, place one end of 2 inches (5 centimeters) of each slat and short.
Install the side rails in the manner described in Step 10. Match the slanted edges of the strips with strip of the rear wall. Combined, they form the shelf support.
Cut a shelf of a sheet of plywood 1/2 inch (1 cm) thick. Use the rack 24 inches (60 centimeters) wide and the same length as the distance between the right and left of the cabinet walls. Sanded, painted and sealed the shelf as you prefer. Place the rack on the support.
Measure the ceiling chalk line from the right wall to the left. Take the guide sliding door kit and cut 1/8 inch (3 mm) shorter than the length of the chalk line to make sure it fits well. Align the holes in the guide with the chalk line from the ceiling. Subject guide to ceiling in each hole is aligned with the roof beam, using the screws provided in the kit.
Hang the doors of the guide roof according to manufacturer’s instructions.
Install the door frame with screws, and following the manufacturer’s instructions.
Purchase a wardrobe of at least 24 inches (60 cm) deep, 36 inches (90 cm) wide and 64 inches (1.60 m) tall.
Place your wardrobe against the wall in a place where no entrance to the room or window. Doors should have enough space, so do not hit bed or other furniture when opening or closing.
Using a stud finder to locate the wall studs. Spend the locator on the wall and make a pencil mark where the locator switch light or sound.
Installing a strip 1/2 x 2 inch (1 x 5 cm) in the wall, through at least three beams, so that the top of the wardrobe touch bar center line. Make pilot holes 1/8 inch in the bar at an angle of 90 degrees and the wall studs. Place a countersink bit and drill into each pilot hole until the bit to penetrate deep enough to place the screw and it is flush to the surface of the wood. Secure the ribbon to the wall with wood screws 1/4 inches 1.5 inches (4 centimeters) long.
Subject an L-shaped bracket at two inches (5 centimeters) of the right and left sides of the wardrobe along the trailing edge. A shelf support L-shaped metal piece is about 1/2 inch (0.5 centimeters) thick with two legs of equal length typically, used to stabilize two surfaces at right angles to one another. A support leg should point towards you and the other toward the ceiling. Make pilot holes through the bracket holes, and secure them to the wardrobe and the wall with screws that come with the brackets.
Ensures the shelf supports batten tightening screws 1.5 inches (4 centimeters) long through the bar and the wall studs. If the beams are not in the correct position in the closet to secure the brackets to the wall L, using bolts, which have flanges extending after the insert in the wall.